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Binoculars are labeled with two numbers, for example 10x25. The first number - the 10 in this example is the magnification. Magnification means how many times the image is enlarged over normal when you look through the binoculars. As magnification increases, image brightness and field of view (the area seen through the binoculars) decreases. The second number, 25 in this example, is the diameter of each front lens, measured in millimeters. The larger this number, the brighter and sharper the image will be -- but the weight of the binoculars increases as well.

Binoculars weight: Most people find that anything more than 2 1/2 lbs is not comfortable to carry around on their neck. You may want to inquire about binoculars harness, which supports the weight on your shoulders rather than your neck.

Exit pupil in binoculars is the diameter of the beam of light that leaves the eyepieces and is measured in millimeters. To view an exit pupil, hold the binoculars at arm's length and you will see a circle of light in each eyepiece. This circle is the exit pupil. Exit pupil is a very rough guide of image brightness. Binoculars with large exit pupils provide brighter images under very low light conditions. For normal daylight viewing, an exit pupil of 2.5 or 3 mm will suffice. Astronomy requires an exit pupil of 5 to 7mm. An exit pupil larger than 7 is a waste of light since the human eye cannot open wide enough to accept an exit pupil larger than this.

Field of vision is the area you see when you look through binoculars. As magnification increases, field of view decreases. Eyepiece design also affects field of view. Wide-angle design eyepieces of good optical quality compensate for that but these will be more expensive.

Focusing: A center focus binocular uses a single wheel to focus on objects. It can focus on objects both very close and far away, making it the most versatile and commonly used focusing system in binoculars. An individual eyepiece focus binocular requires you to focus each eyepiece when looking at an object, but once focused for your eyes, objects from 40 yards away to infinity are always in focus and require no additional focusing.
Diopter Adjustment on a binocular allows you to compensate for differences in strength between your right and left eye. Since most people have one eye stronger than the other, this is a feature found on all binoculars except for "focus free" models. Diopter adjustment has been traditionally located on the right eyepiece, but some models use a separate wheel or a locking mechanism on the center focus knob.
"no focus" or "focus free" binoculars are the economy version of binoculars -- the eyepieces are locked and set at the factory and cannot be adjusted. You can never focus on objects closer than 40 yards away and the binoculars cannot be adjusted for differences in strength between your right and left eyes.

Lens Coatings: Chemical coatings on the lenses will make images brighter. Whenever light strikes a lens, a certain percentage of light is lost. There are different types of lens coatings. A multi coated lens feature is a good one to have on your binoculars.

Night Vision Binoculars: consist of several main parts: an objective lens, an eyepiece, a power supply and an image intensifier tube (Photocathode Tube). Night vision devices gather existing ambient light (starlight, moonlight or infra-red light) through the front lens. This light, which is made up of photons goes into a photocathode tube that changes the photons to electrons. The electrons are then amplified to a much greater number through an electrical and chemical process. The electrons are then hurled against a phosphorus screen that changes the amplified electrons back into visible light that you see through the eyepiece. The image will now be a clear green- hued amplified re-creation of the scene you were observing.

Prisms: A prism is a glass element used to produce an upright, correct right to left image in binoculars. Without a prism, binoculars will produce an upside down image. Binoculars have either a porro prism or a roof prism.
A porro prism is larger and bulkier prism than a roof prism. You will recognize porro prism binoculars by its shape. Its eyepiece and the front lens are always offset and are never in a straight line. Optically, a porro prism is very efficient. It is also less expensive to make than a roof prism.
A roof prism is a smaller prism shaped like a little house with a roof. It is smaller and more compact than a porro prism and can be installed in a much sleeker housing than a porro prism. This makes roof prism binoculars nicer binoculars to hold and handle for most people. Roof prism binoculars will have the eyepiece and the front lens always in a straight line or straight tube.Waterproof Binoculars: These binoculars are guaranteed by the manufacturer not to fog up due to moisture inside the binoculars (any binocular can fog up on the outside). Binoculars are made to be waterproof and fog proof by filling (purging) them with nitrogen. Claims of water-resistant, climate-proof, rain-proof are not to be confused with a waterproof claim.